12/7: Lisbon's Bairro Alto & Chiado Neighborhoods: Funiculars, Dressing Statues & Jesuits!

I returned two weeks ago from being away on vacation with a friend in New Zealand and Australia for 3.5 weeks. In case you also want to follow that really fun trip, here's a link to the newest blog: www.bergersadventures7.blogspot.com

Our apartment was in a hilly section north of Lisbon's city center so each day of our stay we were faced with dealing with lots of graffiti and walking down many steps but the latter were better than having to go up them! 

Very colorful sardine cans!

After having his backpack stolen two days earlier in Sevilla's gorgeous Plaza de Espana, we spent some time looking for another one to get him through the last few weeks of our trip. There were lots of choices in Rossi, the historic center and the city's bustling cultural heart. Because of its elongated shape, historians think it was likely a Roman racetrack 2,000 years ago.

The wavy pattern in the stone pavement reminded us right away of the similar patterns found all over Rio de Janeiro. These evoked waves encountered by the country's great explorers. Both of us got slightly nauseous as we looked down while crossing the square.

In the square's center was a column honoring Pedro IV, the king of Portugal and emperor of Brazil. Even though some maps still refer to the square as Praca Dom Pedro IV, residents still call it Rossi after the central train station at one corner.

In one corner of the square we saw the Elevador de Santa Justa and the ruined convent against the city's skyline. We'd return there later. 

A palace that was used as the headquarters of the Inquisition once occupied the square. When it was torn torn down in an effort to erase its memory, the National Theater was built in its place.

This was another view of the National Theater from early the next morning as we walked by it en route to the train station and our day trip to Sintra. 

A view standing from in front of the National Theater and looking back toward Pedro's column:

The circa 1900 facade of the Rossi station was called Neo-Manueline after King Manuel I and referred to the more ornamental than structural style which blended late Gothic features and Mudejar or Moorish elements. 

There was supposed to have been a statue of the romantic, dashing and young King Sebastian in the center of the two arches but it must have been gone for restoration. He disappeared in 1580 while on an ill-fated crusaded in Africa. As there was no direct heir, the crown went to Philip II of Spain who became Philip I of Portugal. He promised to abandon the throne if Sebastian ever returned. Ever since, Portuguese people have dreamed of Sebastian returning and even nowadays, in a time of crisis, their hope is their Sebastian will save the day!

Just up from the station was the Praca dos Restaurados, a monumental square that connected Rossio with Lisbon's long and grand Avenida da Libertade. The obelisk in the center celebrated Portuguese independence from Spain in 1640 even though they didn't get any assistance from the still-missing Sebastian!

Overlooking the square was the 1920s Art Deco facade of the Eden Theater.

A hundred or so yards further up the boulevard was the Gloria funicular that opened to the public in 1885 to connect the Restaurados Square with Bairro Alto or High Town, our destination for a walk through one of the three downtown neighborhoods. In 1915, the Gloria was the second funicular to be installed in the city of seven hills; it was declared a National Monument in 2002.

It was so much fun riding the funicular along the very narrow streets rather than hiking up the steep hills along the tracks. What was especially nice was that it wasn't simply for tourists, but a means for locals to get more easily from one area of the city to the other.

A common sight throughout Lisbon were places to stop to get a drink of sangria.

Just up from the funicular stop at the end of the line was a small park which had a bust honoring a 19th century journalist and a barefooted delivery boy. 

Of greater interest, though, was another of Lisbon's Miradouro or viewpoints; from the Miradouro de San Pedro de Alacantara, we had a panoramic view of the Castle of St. George we'd toured yesterday after arriving from Sevilla  

I had more fun than Steven wandering around the Christmas market although he does love to window shop so we make a great pair.

Travel writer Rick Steves describes Bairro Alto as one of the most characteristic and charming districts in the city. When it was designed in the 16th century with what was then a very modern grid-plan layout, the area was home to ship workers when Portugal was a world power and its ships placed the Portuguese flag around the globe. 

The area seemed pretty gritty now and was less charming than we expected. It appeared that no neighborhood was immune to the graffiti we'd already seen so much of in the Alfama district. Both of us liked Lisbon but the overwhelming amount of graffiti did get us both down after a few days and certainly 'colored' our view of the capital. But I am getting ahead of myself.  

Looking at the glass half-full side of things, the tile work, iron balconies and small cafes were of moderate interest. 

Thankfully, it didn't take us long to reach the more attractive Largo Trinidade Coelho where the 16th century Sao Roque Church was located. The church, one of the first few Jesuit ones in the country, was dedicated to the saint who protected people from disease and plagues.

The painted wood ceiling was unusually perfectly flat even though it looked like it had a false dome. 

On the floor, the numbered panels had represented nameless tombs as they contained lots of people. However, when parishioners no longer wanted plague victims rotting under their feet in the 19th century, the practice was discontinued so the tombs were empty.

As you can see, there were many side chapels, each one as rich and ornate as the last.

The paintings in the Chapel of St. Anthony of Lisbon were created by a Portuguese artist who had trained in Rome between 172 and 1719.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Piety was decorated with gilt woodcarving and early 18th century Florentine-influenced inlaid marble. The cherubic angels were just adorable. 

The highlight was the Chapel of St. John the Baptist with its gold and lapus lazuli columns. If you thought it may have come out of the Vatican, you're right because it did! The chapel, made from precious metals and by a team of Italian artists in Rome, was the site of one papal Mass before it was taken apart and transported in sections to Lisbon. It was the most expensive chapel ever constructed in the country per square inch.

If I hadn't read the information provided, I would never have guessed the walls were filled with intricate mosaics designed to take the place of paintings which could be damaged from candle smoke and incense. I could barely comprehend the labor involved in creating such masterpieces over five hundred years ago.

The equally stunning mosaic floor of the chapel was adorned with the spherical symbol of Portugal.

Another, not too shabby chapel (!!), the Altar of the Holy Martyrs, was created at the end of the 16th century to showcase the vast collection of relics assembled by an ambassador of Philip II's in Lisbon during King Sebastian's shortened reign. It was donated to the Jesuits in 1588.

The Main Chapel was built at the end of the 16th century for Joao de Borja's sepulcher. Its seven paintings rotate according to the liturgical calendar which was something I'd not heard of before. 

Just like the Altar of the Holy Martyrs, the Altar of the Holy Virgins was created to exhibit the relics collected by the same ambassador and similarly donated to the Jesuits in 1588.

I loved this image from another of the chapels.

The affiliated Museum of Sao Roque opened to the public in 1905 to contain the important treasures of Italian art from the church's Chapel of St. John the Baptist. A shrine was first constructed in 1506 to hold a relic of St. Roch whose miracles helping victims of plague were then popular in southern Europe. Though the shrine was later demolished, four painted panels of its altar piece remained which alluded to the saint's life.

Before visiting the church and museum I hadn't been aware that the Society of Jesus or Jesuits had been created in 1534 by St. Ignatius of Loyola with the aid of the Portuguese King Joao III and other important people representing royalty and the Catholic Church. The Ignatian priests chose the Shrine of Sao Roque to construct their Jesuit home or Professed House. These paintings were from their residence.

The set of relics kept in the Church of Sao Roque was unequaled in Portugal because in large part of the donation from the Jesuits. 

The Jesuits, at a time of crisis in the Roman Catholic Church because of the reformist movement begun by Martin Luther, used images as a form of religious propaganda in order to promote the unity of the faithful in support of the Pope. 

They exhibited works illustrating episodes in the life of Jesus, the Virgin and their martyr saints in their churches. The saints most venerated by the Jesuits were presented through paintings and sculptures. 

These 17th and 18th century polychrome wood pieces were called 'dressing sculptures' as they had movable limbs to allow them to be dressed.

We knew from experience that no museum of religious art would be complete without some Flemish tapestries and the Sao Roque Museum was no exception as it had the Trojan War Cycle from the 17th century. 

My Catholic friends: Have you ever heard of a Baptismal Shell? This 18th century one was the first for me. 

I am always rather appalled when I see such wildly extravagant (in my opinion) jewels in Catholic churches such as this silver piece with inlaid diamonds and amethysts from the 19th century as I think the money would have been better spent to help those in need.

The embossed silver and chiseled silver and ivory altar set was from the 18th century. 

Santa Casa da Misericordia de Lisboa was founded in 1498 under the auspices of Queen Leonor to help relieve the social and health problems in Portugal. The Misericordia adopted the image of the Virgin with an open cloak in a protective gesture which was extended to all social classes as its identifying symbol.

Gold, gold and more gold: It was apparently rare to find such rich and intact 18th century liturgical vestments as these. Commissioned in Rome and using gold and diamonds from Brazil, the pieces were executed by some of the most notable goldsmiths and embroiderers of the period.

It's been a while since I was able to add to my 'collection' of bathroom signs! Luckily, even though we'd just arrived in Portugal after spending so long in Spain, Steven and I were both able to get by with the new language. No doubt it helped having spent time in Brazil a year ago as part of our 3.5 month long trip to South America. 

Back out on the church square was the statue of a lottery ticket seller and two lottery kiosks nearby. Locals who buy into the totoloto like to rub the statue's well-polished ticket for good luck. 

Down the street a bit was Cervejaria da Trinidade, billed as the oldest beer hall in the city and definitely worth a look for its 19th century tiles. Its main room was once a dining hall for monks and still held the pulpit from which the Bible was read as the monks ate. After religious orders were abolished in 1834, the monastery became a brewery!

Further down the hill was Bairro do Avillez, one of several restaurants owned by celebrity chef Jose Avillez whose goal is to bring traditional Portuguese recipes into the current century. 

The Largo do Carmo or square was decorated with old fountains and jacaranda trees imported from South America that bloomed with purple flowers in June.

One side of the square was taken up with the headquarters of the National Guard which was the last stand against the country's former dictatorship under Antonio Salazar who was modern Europe's longest ruling dictator. Portuguese people won their freedom in 1974 in a peaceful protest called the Carnation Revolution, a term that arose when revolutionaries put flowers in the guns of the soldiers guarding the building, making it clear that the time for democracy had come.  The round plaque on the ground marked the event.

We had seen the remains of the Convento do Carmo from Rossio Square that morning - now we saw far more of the convent that was almost entirely destroyed in the 1755 earthquake from Carmo Square. What remained were the delicate Gothic arches of the church that were preserved as a permanent reminder of the disastrous event. 

In the distance we caught yet another glimpse of the castle with the flags flying high.

An architect who studied under Gustav Eiffel completed the 150 foot tall Elevador de Santa Justa in 1902 to connect the upper and lower parts of town. We didn't pay to climb the spiral stairs to the lookout at the top as we figured the views we already had were plenty good enough.

The 100 year-old Cafe A Brasileira was a local institution for caffeine junkies after originally being a shop selling Brazilian products. Neither of us have ever cared that much for coffee, though, to want to while away time in a cafe while traveling. We're much more partial to relax and wind down in parks than cafes.

The statue out front was of Lisbon poet Fernando Pessoa who was the city's creative and literary soul during the 1920s and 1930s.  

Lina: When you and Dan visited Lisbon, I wonder if you noticed the street lamps decorated with  the symbol of Lisbon: a ship carrying the remains of St. Vincent and guarded by two ravens?

Walking along Rua Garrett in the neighboring Chiado neighborhood, we were again struck by the mosaic sidewalks.

The Bertrand Bookstore was listed by Guinness World Records as being the oldest operating bookshop as it was established in 1732. How my father would have loved it.

Janina: When, dear friend, have you seen a shop with your name on it before? Guess you'll have to go to Lisbon to check it out yourself one day!

This was but one of the many tiled buildings that caught our eye in the Chiado shopping district.

The street ended at the pretty swish six-floor shopping center called Armazazens do Chaido that we did spend some time in as they had a handy food court on the top floor. 

A few minutes' walk from the mall was Praca Luis de Camoes, named for the great writer standing on the pillar and leaning on a sword. With that stance, he appeared more of a fighter than a man of words. I think this may well have been the largest Santa I've ever seen!

Anyone who's been to Portugal know of the country's national treat known as pastel de nata or custard tart. We'd read the best place in town to get them was Manteigaria. Unfortunately my photo doesn't do justice to the pastries filled with gooey custard that were then popped into a 750 degree oven to get just the right amount of caramelizing on top. 

While Steven rested in the park above, I had great fun poking in the very upscale tile shop called Fabrica Sant' Anna that had been in existence since 1741. I finally came away with a small Christmas tile that I liked although Steven thought I should have bought something we could always look at to remind us of our time in Lisbon. That would be a great idea IF we ever return to Lisbon!

As I mentioned a while back, the Bairro Alto meant the Upper Town so we had lots and lots of steps to walk down as Lisbon should really be nicknamed the City of Hills!

I read that the elegant Museum of Pharmacy and Health had been nominated for the European Museum of the Year. However worthwhile it may have been, we weren't interested in looking at anything more than its exterior!

On the same terrace was this equally attractive building that I think was a hotel but not sure. 

Facing the sea was the monument to the Cape of Good Hope that was certainly far different than the one we saw in South Africa a few years back! This was known as the Cape of Torment and personified the Cape as a monster as popularized by poet Camoes who almost deified the country's great explorers who had to overcome such demons in their seafaring voyages. 

Rather than walking down countless more steps to the lower part of town, we again elected to take another funicular - who wouldn't when it was so much fun, pretty inexpensive and we could sit back and relax?! The Elevador da Bica funicular opened to the public in 1892 as the city's most picturesque route. It, too, was declared a national monument in 2002. 

People had to scurry out of the way when the funicular was passing by as it traveled down such narrow streets there wasn't much room between it and the shops or homes. 

When two passed side by side, there were only inches to spare!

We took it to the end of the line before then hopping on a bus along the waterfront to the Museum of Ancient Art. However, I shall leave that to anther day as this post is long enough and my day is done! 

Next post: I haven't yet decided; either The Museum of Ancient Art or our exciting day trip to Sintra!

Posted on April 10th, 2019, on the second of Denver's 'bomb cyclones' this year.