We'd spent a large chunk of the day already visiting Madrid's superb Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, doing part of an exciting self-guided walking tour through the city before exploring the wonderfully modern Almudena Cathedral. The latter faced the mammoth Royal Palace, our last stop of the day. Since the 9th century, this spot has been Madrid' center of power: from a Moorish castle to a Christian fortress to a Renaissance palace to the present building which was built in the 18th century. The palace, with its 2,800 rooms totaling almost 1.5 million square feet, is Europe's largest but considered to be the continent's third-greatest after Versailles and Vienna's Schonbrunn. Its large courtyard represented the wealth of Spain before its decline. The entire building was made of gray and white stone to prevent the type of fire that leveled the previous castle.
It took an incredible twenty years for the artist to complete his painting of King Juan Carlos' family that was begun in 1994 and was displayed in the Guard Room. The inlaid stone table in the room was important to Spaniards because it was there that the king signed the treaty which finalized Spain's entry into the European Union.
The magnificent Hall of Columns was previously a ballroom and dining room; nowadays it's used for formal ceremonies and 'intimate concerts.' When King Juan Carlos abdicated so his son could become king in 2014, the formal signing took place here. When Spain's national football team (i.e. soccer to us North Americans) won their 2010 World Cup, they got to celebrate in this room - lucky them!
The Silver Room contained the collection of 19th century silver tableware used in the Gala Dining Hall on special occasions.
From in front of the Royal Palace, a last view of the Cathedral we'd just seen:
While the royal family now lives in a mansion a few miles away, the palace is still used as a ceremonial palace and for formal state receptions, royal weddings, and day trippers like us! Whenever dignitaries arrive, fancy carpets are rolled down the impressive Grand Stairs which were intentionally shallow to make the climb slow and regal!
In my dreams, I felt like a wannabe princess as we ascended the stairs. The burgundy coat of arms represented the current king Felipe VI (i.e. Philip), son of King Juan Carlos I who was able to return real power to the parliament after Francisco Franco's dictatorial regime.
The lovely ceiling fresco depicted one of the Spanish kings sitting on clouds surrounded by female Virtues.
At the top of the stairs was a marble bust of Juan Carlos' great- great-great-great-great-great grandfather Philip V who began the Bourbon dynasty in Spain in 1700 and had the Royal Palace built. I think I got the right number of greats in there!
The magnificent Hall of Columns was previously a ballroom and dining room; nowadays it's used for formal ceremonies and 'intimate concerts.' When King Juan Carlos abdicated so his son could become king in 2014, the formal signing took place here. When Spain's national football team (i.e. soccer to us North Americans) won their 2010 World Cup, they got to celebrate in this room - lucky them!
The 17th century Flemish tapestries were created from scenes by Raphael.
The tiny but equally lavish Porcelain Room was paneled with green, white and gold garlands with vines, babies and mythological figures. The entire room had to be disassembled during Spain's Civil War from 1936-1939.
The Yellow Lounge was a study for Charles III; its highlight was the spectacular chandelier. We could only imagine what the entire palace must look like when it is also fully lit like the chandelier which was generally left on.
Up to a dozen times a year, the king entertains as many as 144 guests at bowling-lane sized table in the Gala Dining Hall which can be extended to the full length of the room. I couldn't even begin to think how magical the room must look during state banquets when its fifteen chandeliers with their 900 bulbs are all lit. The room was created in 1879 when King Alfonso XII ordered three rooms from the Queen's apartments be joined together to form the hall.
The Silver Room contained the collection of 19th century silver tableware used in the Gala Dining Hall on special occasions.
The Crockery and Crystal Rooms held Philip V's collection of china, the oldest and rarest of the pieces we saw. It came from China before it was opened to the West.
The royal family used to live on the palace's spacious middle floor; the staff was upstairs and the kitchen, garage, and storerooms were on the ground level. When the new king, Felipe VI, married a commoner for love, they celebrated their wedding party in this Courtyard which was decorated like any of the other palace rooms.
The Royal Chapel was used for private concerts and funerals. Royal coffins sit here before making the sad trip to El Escorial to join the other previous royals. If you're a frequent reader of the blog, you no doubt remember our side trip to El Escorial from Segovia several days earlier. I was amused to discover that, just like my church, the chapel even had a 'crying room' in the back for royal babies!
On either side of the chapel were statues of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.
If you're a fan of classical music, you would have given your eyeteeth to see the palace's Stradivarius Room as it had the world's best collection and the only matching quartet set: two violins, a viola, and a cello. King Charles III, who considered himself to be a cultured man, like to fiddle (!) around with these instruments made by Antonius Stradivarius (1644-1737). Today, just one of his 300 remaining instruments in the world might sell for $15 million!
The Throne Room was probably the most glorious room in the entire palace with its silver and crystal chandeliers from Venice's Murano Island, lovely lions and black bronze statues that were in the fortress that was on this spot before the 1734 fire.
The coat of arms above the throne showed the Bourbon empire which, during the 18th century, included Sicily, Burgundy, the Netherlands and so many other places. A new throne is built for each new king and queen and includes a gilded portrait on the back.
I don't think my photos have even begun to do the grand palace justice, but I hope you got a sense at least of the opulence of the chandeliers, the tapestries, the porcelain, the collections, and the furnishings. It was so overwhelming, it was impossible to take it all in during the two hours or so we were there. I could certainly see how someone would notice something new each time they went, even if they went several times, because there was just so much!
In one corner of the courtyard was the Armory which housed weapons and armor belonging to many great Spanish historical figures. Though some of it was used for fighting, royal pastimes included hunting and jousting tournaments. It was fun to see the massive figures of knights in shining armor! Many of the pieces belonged to Charles I and his son, Philip II, the great kings who ruled Spain at its 16th century peak.
The tapestry above the armor had been on the walls of the palace that existed before the current one. I read that tapestries traveled ahead of royals to decorate their living spaces and make them 'fit for a king' when kings had to be often on the road in order to effectively govern.
From the edge of the courtyard, we had marvelous views of the Gardens, formerly the kings' hunting grounds and now a city park. The palace was beyond gorgeous but I had had my fill of all things palatial by then!
Leslie: I hope this post was worth waiting for. Thanks for the prod to keep writing of our travels.
Next post: Visiting the Prado, one of the world's top museums.
Posted on January 9th, 2019, from suburban Denver.
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