10/6: Bukhara Excellent Emir's Summer Palace & Chor Bakr

As there was a number of sights we wanted to see away from the Uzbekistan Silk Road city of Bukhara, we asked the hotel for a taxi and were happy when the owner's elder son, Farxod, said he'd be glad to drive us around for the day for only $45. We'd gotten to know him and his younger brother, Xurshid, quite well the last several days as, unlike most visitors to Bukhara, we stayed for four days and they said they considered us 'family' by then!

As the 27 year old Farxod drove, I kept noticing him honking his horn at pedestrians who were in the crosswalks and asked him why. Steven and I didn't now whether to laugh or shudder when he commented with a straight face that he did that to hurry them up as "maybe his car wouldn't be able to stop in time so the pedestrians had better run across the crosswalks!" I shouldn't have been shocked as Uzbek drivers seemed to take a lot of unnecessary chances driving from our experience. I remember often just closing my eyes any number of times while in Uzbek cars or even marshrutkas!

About eight  miles from Bukhara in the village of Kasri Orifon was the Bakhauddin Naqshbandi complex which centered around the 14th century saint and the city's spiritual adviser. No matter what one's faith, it was hard to argue with this quote of his.

As was the norm at all major museums and sights in Uzbekistan, the complex was 'recreated and restored in October of 2003 with the initiative of the first president of the country, Islom Karimov.' 

Click on the photo below to make it bigger if you're interested the many rules that had to be followed while visiting the complex!

I read that Naqshbandi is one of the most well known saints in the Islamic world and the founder of Sufi order of Islam named after him. He was born in 1318 in Bukhara and spent almost all his life there and the villages around it. 

There were many places throughout the complex where Muslim faithful had gathered for spontaneous prayer under the direction of an imam. As we had observed before, Muslims pray with open hands in a cupped position.

We didn't have much information about the massive complex so just wandered around. In hindsight, we should have asked about hiring a guide to tell us what we were seeing. 

As we walked under the overhand, we saw some of the prettiest ceilings ever. 

Men were also praying on the other side of the large, open courtyard. 

I was certainly remiss that day not wearing pants or my long skirt as my legs should have been covered. I had also forgotten my headscarf in Farxod's car - two strikes against me when visiting the place considered holy for Muslims. The turquoise and white mosaic tile work was as beautiful as in some many of the mosques, madrassas and mausoleums we'd already seen throughout Bukhara the last few days. 

The ceilings were just as ornate on the other side of the courtyard. 

I don't know what this relatively small square-shaped building was that we'd also seen at the stunning Kalon Mosque and one at a madrassa in Khiva. I never saw Muslims paying particular attention to it in either of those places to know whether it has a religious significance or was just ornamental. 

The mosque didn't have a grand entrance signifying to us there was a prayer space; The 'giveaway' for us that we knew it was there was the carpet outside where one removed shoes before entering the holy space.  

The complex of buildings just went on and on for ever, it seemed, in deference to Naqshbandi's brand of popular or 'parallel' Islam which has at its roots as much in an animist past as in the formal teachings of Islam.

At times, there were lots of people gathered around  this tree branch but the sign, written in Uzbek only, gave us no clue as to its significance. We discovered later its importance was because a mulberry tree sprang from this branch 500 years ago so faithful believe it can happen again. 

Much attention had been given to the beautifully landscaped grounds throughout the complex.

We came to what ended up being about a quarter mile long path with some of Naqshbandi's sayings that have since become principles in presumably the Sufi order of Islam. 

I found this one poignant: "Use your time wisely; account how many parts of your life passed with good works and with sins."

What a lovely place for quiet reflection in this little alcove. Behind it, visible through the lattice work, were lots of graves we discovered a short while later. 

One of the rooms in the mosque at the end of the path was set aside for female worshippers.

The woman had brought in her own prayer mat which was unusual. 

I don't know whether the complex was always so crowded or whether it was because it was a Saturday. I noticed that each time the imam finished praying - about ten minutes or so - in each of  prayer spaces, many worshippers would put money in the collection box and then leave. Shortly, more people gathered and the imam would begin praying again. 

We noticed many people filling up bottles from what seemed to be holy water. 

The minaret was closed but I was able to peek through the gap in the door to look at the steps. We'd climbed so many other minarets recently I didn't mind we couldn't climb up this one!

We walked among the tombs and mausoleums for a bit but had no idea whose we were seeing. It was more to get a sense of the ancient saint and his followers. 

It was a little claustrophobic walking down what I dubbed 'mausoleum alley.'

Farxod, our host and driver, mentioned that European tourists mostly visit Bukhara in the springtime, mostly Japanese in the summer and Russians come for the ten day long Victory Day celebrations in May and again in December through the middle of January. He said some Americans come but not at any specific time of the year. When he said his wife was pregnant with a daughter in December, he added that it was Uzbek custom to consult with each set of grandparents on the name!

As we drove Farxod reminded us that cotton was the only crop allowed during the Soviet era. His parents, his brother and he all were required to pick cotton each fall as part of the government's forced labor practice. They spent 45-50 days each fall picking the crop and were only paid a dollar for forty kilos! Wages have now increased, he said, and pickers are now being paid the same amount for 'only' five kilos. All pickers received free room and board. He stated that obviously he didn't like the work but did enjoy being able to chat with his fellow students as they picked cotton together. This was the first year that Uzbek citizens were not not required to toil in the cotton fields, he added. 

The government has recognized the need to diversify from just growing cotton, Farxod added, and is making efforts to improve its oil and gas industry and especially tourism. We weren't surprised when he stated there are big manufacturing plants now building several models of Chevrolet cars in Uzbekistan as that brand monopolized the car market in the country.

What turned out to be the most special place on our day trip was the Emir's Summer Palace, the home of the last emir of Bukhara, Alim Khan, before he fled to Afghanistan in 1920. We hired Aziz, a private guide at the palace, for the embarrassingly low cost of under $4 to show us around for the next hour or so. He told us this location was chosen to construct the one hundred year old palace because it was the coolest place in the region. 

An almost mind boggling four hundred architects worked on every aspect of the Emir's Summer Palace, according to Aziz. Invited guests said 'Good Morning' to the emir in the Greeting Hall, a huge European style and quite elaborate courtyard, which was seemingly its only purpose.

Off the Greeting Hall was the Waiting Room where guests had to wait two to three hours before an audience with the emir. So they wouldn't get bored while waiting, the room was quite beautifully decorated with flowers using only natural colors.

Just off it was the White Hall, a reception room that the emir entered from his bedroom at the far end of the hall. The Polish chandelier weighed 500 kilos. It took 25 architects two full years to build just this one room. We weren't able to enter it but it did look glorious from the doorway with the 7x14 meter carpet weighing 300 kilos from Turkmenistan, French furniture, Japanese vases and gorgeous detailed walls.

A mirror from Venice and a 19th century silk prayer rug from Iran adorned the adjacent corridor.

In the Game Room was a seven liter silver vessel to hold vodka for Tsar Nicholas II and many other silver objects crafted by Bukhara's silver craftsmen. There was a furnace but there was no need to use that in Bukhara's scorching summers when temperatures can get into the 40's Celsius. 

Aziz pointed out the Star of David in the leaded glass as fact that many Jews also participated in the construction of the palace.

These silver pieces were used to rock a baby cradle. Ivy: I wish I could give a set to Hanna and Shawn for their little one due soon!

In the Banquet Hall we saw portraits of the last emir who ruled Bukhara for ten years beginning in 1910 before he left for or fled to Afghanistan, depending on the story, in 1920. He died there in 1944 after fathering 37 children, 7 of whom Aziz said were still alive. One, a daughter, was only 8 months old when her father died and she lives in NY and taught Farsi at NYU.

Father and son: the latter was the last emir who 'relocated' to Afghanistan.

This Russian fridge worked by placing ice on the top shelf which then cooled the food below as the ice melted. It looked very attractive but I can't imagine the ice lasting long in the intense Bukhara summer heat.

The wood floors throughout this part of the Palace were made from eight types of trees. 

The Secretary's Hall was another striking room. In it were kept a safe for precious papers, a backgammon table and a mirror where you could see yourself reflected forty times. Now that's a scary thought!

In the Palace's Tea House, Aziz pointed out the collection of Chinese and Japanese vases and said sadly only 120 of the original 500 remained as the rest had been carted off to Russia. 

This was a plate for Uzbekistan's national dish, plov, a delicious rice meal served with sauteed carrots and a bit of meat on top that Steven and I ate several times. Aziz told us he knew this dish was for three people because it had three designs on it. 

When some of the artists who worked on the Summer Palace had trained in Russia, they saw statues of lions there and wanted to replicate them at the Palace because lions were seen as symbols of protection as they sleep with their eyes open. 

Just outside the Tea House was a metal chaser whose work was also on display. Aziz said the plates with six stars represented the Star of David; those with eight stars symbolized Uzbekistan. The man said even the smaller plates took two days' work for him to make. Since eyeing them our first afternoon in Bukhara, we had wanted to buy one so chose this small one crafted by this man as a lovely souvenir from Bukhara.

Two peacocks had been brought from India to the Summer Palace. Now there were numbered more than 30, Aziz said. 

The eight-room Guest House was built in 1915. In two of its rooms, the designers made use of liquid gold but left the bedrooms plain. 

The House contained an exhibition of 19th and 20th century Bukharain clothing, including a wedding dress from 1918.

This dress would have been worn by a nine year old who was considered an adult one hundred years ago. 

A white dress like this was worn by elderly women. Inside were the number of tassels corresponding to the number of children she had. Aziz stated that when the Russians came, they didn't allow this type of clothing.

I was fascinated by this photo of a man and presumably his sons in long ago Bukhara. Aziz explained that, according to Islam, all people (but not sure if he actually just meant men?) needed three things in life in the desert: a turban that would be anywhere from 4 to 24 meters long that could be worn on a head and also used as a burial shroud, a knife to dig a grave and a silver earring to give to the person who buries him as a form of thanks!

We learned there used to be 300 silversmiths in Bukhara about a hundred years ago.

Unmarried girls (and women presumably) wore hats like the ones on the top shelf while married women wore the hats on the bottom shelf as their hair was tied up so it wouldn't spill into their food or while they were doing housework!

Women's hair ornaments weighed from three to six kilos each!

Dishes were placed in one of the prettiest cupboards I've ever seen!

Anywhere from 5% to 25% of the thread in the emir's robes was gold. When the emir met with people, he always wore seven robes with a white one being the outer robe! Aziz stated he did that to look big to people, to show respect to his ancestors and so he could give an extra robe to someone who gave him good news. The emir had 700 robes, each one taking 200 days to make!

We strolled next to the Rest House, beside which a nine foot deep pool had been dug by hand for use by the emir and his family.

Guards stood watch on top of the Rest House.

In the Rest Area was a marvelous exhibit of suzanis. It would take a woman six months to embroider one this size for her dowry, we learned. Nowadays only girls living in villages are learning how to make the exquisite works.

Steven and I had seen hundreds and hundreds of the stunning tablecloths, runners and cushion covers by then but it took Aziz to tell us that the meaning of some of the patterns. A pomegranate meant the woman would have many children because of the seeds in the fruit; peppers represented the evil eye; almonds symbolized riches, etc.

Lil Red: Knowing of your love for needlework, I thought you'd be interested to know that we learned from Aziz that 'suzani' is a Farsi word meaning needlework.

Often a suzani is made in pieces by separate women and then sewn together. This one was divided into six pieces. 

This 100 year old suzani was unlike any other one we'd seen as every inch of the white background was entirely covered! I cannot begin to imagine the talent and hundreds of hours spent on a work of such complexity. 

Aziz showed us the dining room in the Rest House for the emir's wives. He didn't mention how many there were but with the emir having 16 sons and 21 daughters, he must have had a lot of wives! I took it with a grain of salt when Aziz claimed the emir's wives didn't quarrel or argue. The women were able to open the doors and windows to the pool next to the Rest House through the orange covering.

Before we left the Summer Palace, Aziz indicated the palace grounds had been much larger until several hectares had been given to the nearby Sanitarium so that people from Russia, Ukraine and other nations with liver issues could get better. 

How lucky we were to have been the recipients of Aziz's extensive knowledge of the Palace and local customs as we learned a huge amount.

Our last stop of the day was at Chor Bakr, another main Sufi sight. Its street of tombs was centered around the graves of Sayid Abu Bakr and three brothers. Because in Arabic, Sayid means a direct descendant of the prophet Muhammad, this complex was considered especially religious for Bukharian aristocracy. 

There had been such a fierce sandstorm on the way to Chor Bakr we were glad we weren't out walking then. 

The place was being renovated so there were very few other people around except for the workers and a couple of other tourists. 

It was hard to grasp that the complex that comprised a mosque, pilgrim accommodations, a place for ablutions and meditation rooms was a major pilgrimage site in its present state when it was devoid essentially of any pilgrims. Yes, there were renovations going on but I couldn't see why if it were such a revered sight, no pilgrims ventured there. After all, there had to have been thousands and thousands earlier in the day at the Naqshbandi complex. 

A man, sitting in the shade under the tree, saw us wandering around and kindly opened up the prayer space for us so we could look around. It was very similar to what we'd seen at other mosques and madrassas in Bukhara but still stunning. 

Having seen the sights in both Khiva and Bukhara that had been already restored, it was refreshing to get a glimpse of what an area looked, if not in its original state, at least before work had been completed as we knew what that was like.

We both loved seeing how vibrant some of the bright blue colors still were after hundreds of years in Bukhara's harsh climate. 

We didn't spend long at Chor Bakr but wandering around the religious complex had a charm all its own even if we didn't understand the relevance of what we were seeing.

Back in Bukhara after our almost five plus hour day trip, we relaxed and then hit a couple of the town's bazaars as we, or rather I had narrowed down what I wanted to buy after scouting things out for days! One was a small purse made from an old piece of oriental rug that this woman made. I can't wait to wear or use it this winter when we get home as it's so unusual!

We had one of our best meals anywhere in Uzbekistan that night just a few minutes' walk from our hotel. When we walked into the restaurant, we asked a woman for a menu. Instead, she told us to follow her back to the kitchen where she began taking lids off pots and pans on the stove showing us what she could make for us!

I ordered the Uzbek equivalent of a beef stew with mashed potatoes and Steven had plov, the dish I described earlier. All that plus tea, bread and service charge only amounted to $5. As that was our last night in Bukhara, we just wished we had discovered the restaurant earlier as we both loved our meals and knowing where our food had come from and who had made it.

Next post: Bukhara's not so fine Fine Arts Museum and on to Samarkand, our final Silk Road city.

Posted on October 30th, 2018, from Roses on the Costa Brava in Spain.